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Week 1: Your day-by-day separation anxiety training plan

The first week of separation anxiety training is about building a foundation. You’re not going to “fix” the problem in seven days — but you are going to start changing your dog’s emotional response to your departures. Here’s exactly what to do, day by day.

By the end of week 1, most dogs can handle 1–2 minute absences without distress.

I was overwhelmed before I started. The day-by-day breakdown made it feel doable. By the end of week 1, my dog was handling 90-second departures. That doesn’t sound like much, but when you’re starting from zero, it’s everything.

Alicia T., Chihuahua mix, 6 years old

Before you start: Setting up for success

Before day 1, set up a few things that will make the week go smoother.

  • Choose a settle spot. This is where your dog will learn to relax — a bed, mat, or crate (if they’re already crate-comfortable).
  • Get a camera. You need to see what happens when you leave. A cheap webcam or old phone works fine.
  • Prepare enrichment. Frozen Kongs, lick mats, or food puzzles for departure practice.
  • Block off time. You’ll need 10–15 minutes per session, ideally twice a day.
  • Tell your household. Everyone needs to follow the same approach. Bubbas’ household sync helps with this.

Days 1–2: Calm departures (no actual leaving)

The goal for days 1–2 is to break the association between departure cues and panic. You won’t actually leave the house yet.

  • Session 1: Pick up your keys 10 times. Each time, set them down and go sit on the couch. Reward your dog for staying calm.
  • Session 2: Put on your shoes. Walk to the door. Walk back. Sit down. Reward calm behavior. Repeat 10 times.
  • Session 3: Combine cues. Keys + shoes + walking to door. Return to couch. Reward.
  • Between sessions: Practice “boring departures” from rooms. Leave the living room, come right back. No fanfare.

If your dog shows stress during any of these exercises (panting, pacing, whining), slow down. You may need more repetitions at this stage.

Days 3–4: Micro-absences (seconds only)

Now you’ll start real separations — but they’re measured in seconds.

  • Session 1: Step outside your front door. Close it. Count to 3. Come back in calmly. Repeat 10 times.
  • Session 2: Extend to 5 seconds, then 10. Watch your camera. Come back before your dog reacts.
  • Session 3: Try 15–20 seconds. If your dog stays calm, celebrate (internally — keep your return boring).
  • Key principle: Always return before your dog panics. You want every departure to end with a calm return.

Yes, 5 seconds feels silly. That’s the point. You’re building a new association: “that door closes, but the person always comes back.”

Days 5–7: Building to minutes

If days 3–4 went well, you’ll start extending to real (short) absences.

  • Session 1: 30-second departures. Repeat 5–8 times.
  • Session 2: Mix durations — 15 seconds, then 45, then 20, then 60. Unpredictability teaches your dog that they can’t predict the length, which reduces hyper-monitoring.
  • Session 3: Push toward 90 seconds to 2 minutes. Watch your camera. Return calmly.
  • End-of-week check: Can your dog handle a 1–2 minute absence without barking, pacing, or whining? If yes, you’re on track.

What to expect this week

Week 1 is the hardest week emotionally — for you. The sessions feel tedious, the progress feels tiny, and you’ll wonder if it’s working. Here’s what’s normal.

  • Day 1–2: Your dog might be confused. Why are you picking up keys and sitting back down? That’s exactly what you want.
  • Day 3–4: Some dogs show immediate improvement with micro-absences. Others need more repetitions. Both are normal.
  • Day 5–7: You should start seeing your dog’s body language shift. Less following you to the door. Less tension when you pick up keys.
  • Setbacks are normal. If your dog has a bad session, just go back to a shorter duration next time. This isn’t linear.

Tracking your progress in Bubbas

At the end of each session, log it in Bubbas. The app tracks your dog’s maximum calm duration, number of sessions completed, and any setback notes. After a week, you’ll have real data showing your dog’s progress — even if it doesn’t feel dramatic yet.

The AI coach is available throughout the week if you’re unsure about your dog’s response to any exercise. Just describe what happened and get guidance for your next session.

Frequently asked questions

What if my dog can’t handle even 5 seconds?+

That’s okay — start even smaller. Practice closing the door partway, or just reaching for the doorknob. Some dogs need more time at the pre-departure stage before actual departures. Bubbas adjusts your plan based on your dog’s responses.

How many sessions should I do per day?+

Aim for 2–3 short sessions (10–15 minutes each) spread throughout the day. More frequent, shorter sessions are more effective than one long session. Quality and consistency matter more than quantity.

Should I leave treats when I go?+

A high-value enrichment item (frozen Kong, lick mat) given right before you leave can help. But don’t rely on it as a fix — anxious dogs often won’t eat when stressed. The enrichment becomes more useful as your dog’s anxiety decreases through training.

What comes after week 1?+

Week 2 builds on your progress. You’ll extend absences from minutes to 5–15 minutes, add more realistic departure scenarios, and begin working on your dog’s settle routine. Bubbas maps out the full plan and adjusts based on your week 1 results.

Ready to start week 1?

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