Crate training doesn’t have to be a battle — here’s your first week
You bought the crate. You watched the videos. But when you actually closed the door, your dog panicked and you felt terrible. That’s not a failure — it means you went too fast. Crate training works best when you treat it like teaching any new skill: small steps, clear wins, and a schedule you can actually follow. This guide gives you a specific plan for days 1 through 7.
By the end of week one, most dogs can settle in a crate for 30 minutes with the door closed while you’re in the next room.
TL;DR
- Days 1-2: meals in the crate, door stays open. Days 3-4: close the door for 5-30 seconds. Days 5-7: build to 30 minutes.
- Open the door before your dog gets worried, not after — you are training calm, not endurance.
- If your dog escalates when the door closes, you went too fast. Go back a step, not forward.
Best for
- ✓First-time crate trainers who want a specific day-by-day schedule
- ✓Puppies or adult dogs being introduced to a crate for the first time
- ✓Owners who tried crate training before but went too fast and want to start over
- ✓Dogs who need crate skills for travel, vet visits, or management during alone time
Not for
- ✗Dogs with severe crate anxiety who have injured themselves trying to escape (work with a behaviorist)
- ✗Dogs who are already comfortable in the crate and need separation anxiety training instead
- ✗Owners who plan to crate their dog for 8+ hours daily (crates are not designed for that)
“Day one he screamed for 45 seconds. By day five he walked in and lay down on his own. The schedule made the difference — I finally stopped guessing when to push and when to back off.”
Before you start: crate setup and placement
The right crate in the right spot prevents half the problems people run into. Get this right before day one.
- Size: Your dog should be able to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Too big and they may use one end as a bathroom.
- Type: Wire crates with a removable tray are easiest for training. Drape a blanket over three sides to create a den feel.
- Placement: Put the crate in a room where the family spends time — living room or bedroom. Not the garage. Not the basement.
- Bedding: A flat mat or old towel. Skip plush beds for chewers — they’re a choking hazard.
- Leave the door open and toss treats inside for a day or two before starting the schedule. Let your dog investigate on their own terms.
Days 1–2: Meals in the crate, door stays open
The goal for the first two days is simple: the crate becomes the place where good things happen. No closing the door yet. No pressure.
- Feed every meal inside the crate. Place the bowl at the back so your dog has to step all the way in.
- Scatter a few treats inside between meals so your dog checks the crate voluntarily.
- If your dog won’t go in, put the bowl just inside the door and move it back gradually over meals.
- Practice tossing a treat in, saying "crate" (or your chosen cue word) as they enter, then letting them walk back out freely.
- End of day 2 goal: your dog walks into the crate willingly for food with no hesitation.
Patience here pays off exponentially in days 3–7. Don’t rush past this step.
Days 3–4: Close the door, then open it immediately
Now you start building door-closed tolerance in tiny increments. The key is to open the door before your dog gets worried — not after.
- Lure your dog in with a treat or meal. Close the door for 5 seconds. Open it before they react. Treat.
- Repeat 3–5 times per session, 2–3 sessions per day.
- Gradually increase to 15 seconds, then 30 seconds by the end of day 4.
- Stay right next to the crate. Don’t walk away yet.
- If your dog whines, you’ve gone too long. Next rep, shorten the duration. You want to open the door while they’re still calm.
Use a stuffed Kong or lick mat to give your dog something to do while the door is closed. It shifts their focus from the door to the food.
Days 5–6: Building duration and adding distance
Your dog can now handle a closed door for 30 seconds while you’re right there. Time to stretch both duration and distance — but not at the same time.
- Day 5 focus — duration: Stay next to the crate but extend to 2 minutes, then 5 minutes. Give a stuffed Kong.
- Day 5 afternoon: Try stepping 3 feet away from the crate for 30 seconds, then return and treat.
- Day 6 focus — distance: Move to the other side of the room for 2 minutes. Then briefly step out of sight and return.
- Day 6 afternoon: Combine 5 minutes of crate time with you in the next room (within earshot).
- Always return before your dog gets upset. Boring, calm returns — no celebrations.
Day 7: The 30-minute milestone
If you’ve followed the schedule, your dog should be ready for a 30-minute crate session with you out of the room. Here’s how to set it up for success:
- Exercise your dog first — a 20-minute walk or play session.
- Offer a stuffed Kong or long-lasting chew inside the crate.
- Close the door, leave the room, and go about your normal routine.
- Check on your dog after 10 minutes (quickly and calmly, then leave again).
- At 30 minutes, return calmly, open the door, and let them out. No fanfare.
Not every dog hits 30 minutes by day 7. If your dog is at 15 minutes comfortably, that’s excellent progress. Bubbas adjusts the plan to your dog’s pace.
What to do when your dog cries in the crate
This is the hardest part. You’ll hear conflicting advice: "let them cry it out" vs. "never let them cry." The reality is more nuanced.
- Fussing for 30–60 seconds then settling is normal and okay. Wait it out.
- Escalating crying (getting louder, more frantic) means you pushed too fast. Let them out, no drama, and go back a step.
- Never let a dog cry for more than 2–3 minutes in the first week. You’ll create a negative association that takes weeks to undo.
- If your dog panics every time the door closes, go back to day 3 and slow way down.
- Overnight crying is different — puppies under 6 months may need a bathroom break. Set an alarm for every 3–4 hours.
Bubbas’ AI coach can help you troubleshoot crying patterns and determine whether you’re dealing with normal adjustment or a deeper anxiety issue.
Frequently asked questions
Is crate training cruel?+
No. When done properly, a crate provides a safe, den-like space that most dogs learn to love. The key is gradual introduction and never using the crate as punishment. Dogs are den animals — a properly sized crate taps into that instinct.
How long can I leave my dog in a crate?+
Adult dogs should not be crated for more than 4–6 hours during the day. Puppies can handle roughly one hour per month of age (a 3-month-old puppy can do about 3 hours). Overnight is different — most adult dogs can sleep through 7–8 hours in a crate comfortably.
My dog is over a year old. Is it too late to crate train?+
Not at all. Adult dogs often learn faster than puppies because they have better bladder control and longer attention spans. The same schedule works — you may even move through it faster. Some adult dogs hit the 30-minute milestone by day 4 or 5.
What if my dog has had a bad experience with a crate before?+
Start even slower. Spend a full week on the door-open phase (days 1–2 in this guide). Use extra-high-value treats. If your dog won’t go near the crate, try a different style (wire vs. plastic) or feed meals next to the crate first, then just inside. Bubbas’ AI coach can help create a modified plan for crate-averse dogs.
Get a crate training plan that adapts to your dog
Bubbas tracks your dog’s crate training progress and adjusts the schedule based on what’s working. Plus, an AI coach to answer questions when you’re stuck at 2am.
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