Your dog is wired — here’s how to bring them down (now and for good)

Right now: immediate calming techniques

When your dog is already over threshold, you can’t train. You need to bring their arousal down first. These techniques work because they activate the parasympathetic nervous system — the body’s "rest and digest" mode.

• Scatter feeding: Toss a handful of kibble or treats across the floor or grass. Sniffing and foraging engages the seeking system, which is calming. Your dog’s nose goes down, breathing slows, and heart rate drops.
• Lick mat or stuffed Kong: Licking is a self-soothing behavior. Spread peanut butter, yogurt, or wet food on a lick mat and give it to your dog. The repetitive licking action triggers relaxation.
• Pressure wrap: A Thundershirt or snug-fitting t-shirt applies gentle, constant pressure. Similar to swaddling a baby, it activates the calming nervous system in about 60% of dogs.
• Reduce stimulation: Dim the lights, turn off the TV, close the blinds. Move to a quieter room. Less input means less to react to.
• Slow, deep breaths from you: Dogs read your body language. If you’re tense and frustrated, your dog picks up on it. Consciously slow your breathing and relax your shoulders.

Why "calm down" commands don’t work

When a dog is highly aroused, the prefrontal cortex — the part of the brain that processes learned cues — is essentially offline. The amygdala has taken over and your dog is operating on instinct and adrenaline.

Saying "calm down," "settle," or "relax" in a frustrated tone actually increases arousal because your dog reads your tension. And even if you say it calmly, your dog hasn’t been taught what those words mean in behavioral terms. "Sit" works because it describes a specific physical position. "Calm down" describes an internal state that your dog can’t consciously control.

This is why we train relaxation as a behavior — not a command. More on that below.

Teaching a relaxation protocol: Karen Overall’s method

Dr. Karen Overall’s Protocol for Relaxation is the gold standard for teaching dogs to settle on cue. It’s a structured program that trains your dog to remain lying on a mat while you add increasingly challenging distractions. Think of it as meditation training for dogs.

• Your dog lies on a mat. You reward them for staying put while you take one step away. Then two. Then you clap. Then you jog in place.
• The protocol has 15 days of exercises, each building on the last. Sessions take 5–10 minutes.
• The key: you’re rewarding the absence of arousal. Your dog learns that staying calm on the mat pays off, regardless of what’s happening around them.
• Start in a boring room with zero distractions. Only add difficulty when the current level is rock solid.
• By day 15, most dogs can hold a relaxed down-stay while you walk around, open doors, ring the doorbell, and bounce a ball.

Bubbas includes a guided version of the relaxation protocol adapted for daily training sessions. The app walks you through each day and tracks your dog’s progress.

Capturing calm: rewarding what you want to see more of

Most owners only interact with their dog during high-energy moments — play, walks, training, and when the dog is doing something wrong. The quiet moments when your dog is lying on the floor doing nothing? Those go completely unnoticed. And that’s a missed opportunity.

Capturing calm means rewarding your dog whenever they’re relaxed without being asked. Walk by them lying calmly and drop a treat between their paws. Don’t say anything. Don’t make a big deal of it. Just reward and walk away.

• Keep treat jars in multiple rooms so you always have rewards handy.
• Look for: lying down with a relaxed body, resting chin on paws, soft eyes, slow breathing.
• Deliver the treat calmly and quietly. No verbal praise — that can amp them up.
• Do this 5–10 times a day. Within a week, you’ll notice your dog choosing to lie down and relax more often.
• Pair with a mat or bed so they learn that specific spot is where calm happens.

Building a calmer daily routine

Chronic over-arousal isn’t just a training problem — it’s often a lifestyle problem. Some dogs are wired because they’re getting too much stimulation and not enough structured rest.

• Enforce nap times. Adult dogs need 14–16 hours of sleep. If your dog is go-go-go all day, they’re overtired, not under-exercised.
• Reduce fetch and high-intensity games. These spike adrenaline and cortisol. Replace with sniff walks, puzzle feeders, and training games.
• Feed meals through enrichment (Kongs, snuffle mats, scatter feeding) instead of a bowl. Working for food is mentally tiring in a good way.
• Create a decompression routine after walks: come inside, scatter a few treats, give a lick mat, and let your dog settle in a quiet room.
• Stick to a predictable schedule. Dogs who know what’s coming next are calmer than dogs who are always guessing.

When to talk to a vet: arousal that might be medical

Most over-arousal is behavioral. But sometimes a dog who can’t settle is telling you something about their body, not their training.

• Pain: Dogs in chronic pain are often restless, pacing, and unable to settle. If your dog suddenly becomes more wired, a vet check is warranted.
• Thyroid issues: Hyperthyroidism (rare in dogs but possible) or thyroid medication dosing problems can cause agitation and hyperactivity.
• Anxiety disorders: Some dogs have generalized anxiety that goes beyond normal arousal. These dogs may benefit from anti-anxiety medication in addition to training.
• Cognitive changes: Older dogs who suddenly become restless, especially at night, may be experiencing cognitive dysfunction syndrome (dog dementia).
• Diet: High-protein, high-carb diets with artificial additives can contribute to hyperactivity in some dogs. Ask your vet about dietary adjustments.

If your dog’s arousal is sudden, extreme, or doesn’t respond to any calming techniques, see a veterinarian before assuming it’s a training problem.