The crate isn’t the problem. The approach is.

Why forcing the crate backfires

When a dog with separation anxiety is locked in a crate before they’re ready, two fears stack on top of each other: the fear of confinement and the fear of being alone. The result is panic — not just barking, but frantic escape attempts that can break teeth, tear nails, and bend metal.

Every time this happens, the crate becomes more frightening. The dog isn’t learning to be calm. They’re learning that the crate means something terrible is about to happen. After a few bad experiences, even seeing the crate can trigger a stress response.

This is why "crate and leave" doesn’t work for anxious dogs. You need to separate the two skills: first make the crate a positive place, then — separately — work on alone time.

Step 1: Make the crate the best place in the house

Before the crate door ever closes, your dog should be choosing to go in on their own. This isn’t optional — it’s the foundation. Bubbas walks you through this phase with daily exercises that build a genuine positive association.

• Place the crate in a common area, door removed or zip-tied open
• Feed meals next to the crate, then just inside the opening, then fully inside
• Scatter high-value treats in the crate randomly throughout the day
• Place a worn T-shirt or blanket with your scent inside
• Never lure your dog in and close the door — let them choose to enter and exit freely

This phase typically takes 3–5 days. Bubbas tracks your dog’s voluntary entries and tells you when they’re ready for the next step.

Step 2: Close the door in tiny increments

Once your dog is voluntarily entering the crate, you start closing the door — but not the way most people do it. You’re not closing the door and leaving. You’re closing the door while you sit right next to the crate, for 3 seconds, then opening it.

• Close the door for 3 seconds while feeding treats through the bars. Open it.
• Build to 10 seconds, then 30 seconds, then 1 minute — always with you present
• If your dog shows stress (whining, pawing, panting), shorten the duration next time
• Practice 3–5 repetitions per session, twice a day
• Move to the next duration only when your dog is relaxed at the current one

The most common mistake is increasing duration too fast. Bubbas prevents this by only advancing the plan when your session logs show consistent calm behavior.

Step 3: Add distance before adding absence

Your dog can handle the door being closed while you’re sitting right there. Now you gradually increase your distance from the crate — still in the same room, still visible.

• Sit next to the crate with the door closed. Then move to the couch. Then to the kitchen.
• Each new distance is a separate training step — don’t combine distance increases with duration increases
• If your dog is calm with you across the room for 5 minutes, you can start stepping out of sight briefly
• Out of sight means around a corner for 5 seconds, not out the front door

Step 4: Combine crate comfort with departure training

Only after your dog is comfortable in the crate with the door closed while you’re out of sight do you begin actual departure exercises. At this point, the crate is a calm, familiar place — not a prison. Your dog’s only remaining challenge is your absence, which is exactly what Bubbas’ separation anxiety plan addresses.

This is where the two training tracks merge. Your dog has crate skills and is beginning departure tolerance. Bubbas combines them gradually, so the crate becomes the safe place your dog goes when you leave — not the thing they dread.

• Start with 30-second departures while your dog is in the crate
• Return before your dog shows any distress — success means calm, not endurance
• Build to 5 minutes, then 15, then 30 over the course of 2–3 weeks
• Always pair crate time with something positive: a stuffed Kong, a chew, calming music