Your reactive dog isn’t broken — they’re overwhelmed

What reactivity actually is (and isn’t)

Reactivity is an outsized emotional response to a trigger. Your dog sees another dog 50 feet away and goes from zero to full-volume in a second. That reaction is driven by one of two things: fear or frustration. Fear-reactive dogs are trying to make the scary thing go away. Frustration-reactive dogs desperately want to get to it and can’t.

Neither is aggression. Aggression is a willingness to do harm. Reactivity is a dog whose nervous system is overwhelmed and whose only coping strategy is to be loud. The distinction matters because it changes how you train. You’re not correcting bad behavior — you’re teaching a new emotional response.

Step 1: Identify your dog’s triggers

Before you can manage reactivity, you need to know exactly what sets your dog off. Spend two or three walks this week simply observing. Don’t try to fix anything yet — just watch and take notes.

• Other dogs (on-leash, off-leash, or both?)
• Strangers (men specifically? people in hats? children?)
• Moving objects (bikes, skateboards, joggers, cars)
• Sounds (trucks, construction, other dogs barking)
• Specific environments (tight sidewalks, parks, vet’s office)

Write these down. Bubbas’ AI coach will ask about your dog’s specific triggers to build a personalized plan.

Step 2: Find your dog’s threshold distance

Threshold distance is the magic number in reactivity training. It’s the distance at which your dog notices a trigger but hasn’t reacted yet. Below threshold, your dog can still think, take treats, and make choices. Over threshold, the thinking brain shuts off and survival instincts take over.

To find it, approach a known trigger slowly. The moment your dog stiffens, stares, or stops taking treats — that’s the edge of threshold. Back up five feet. That’s where you train.

• At threshold: dog notices trigger, ears forward, body tense but still responsive
• Below threshold: dog can look at trigger and look back at you for a treat
• Over threshold: lunging, barking, won’t take treats, can’t hear you

Threshold distance changes with your dog’s stress level, time of day, and fatigue. Expect it to vary and plan for shorter distances on good days.

Step 3: Learn BAT basics (Behavior Adjustment Training)

BAT, developed by Grisha Stewart, is the gold standard for reactivity. The core idea is simple: let your dog make good choices at a distance where they can think, and reward those choices. You’re not asking your dog to sit or look at you. You’re waiting for them to choose to disengage from the trigger on their own.

• Set up at threshold distance from a trigger (a calm dog behind a fence is ideal to start)
• Use a long leash (10–15 feet) so your dog has room to move
• Wait. Let your dog look at the trigger. Don’t say anything.
• The moment your dog voluntarily looks away, sniffs the ground, or turns toward you — mark and reward
• The reward is functional: your dog gets to move away from the trigger (plus a treat)
• Repeat 3–5 times, then end the session. Less is more.

This week’s homework: three 10-minute sessions

You don’t need to transform your dog this week. You need to start building a new habit — for both of you. Here’s your plan:

• Session 1 (10 min): Find threshold distance for your dog’s primary trigger. Practice three voluntary disengagements. End with play or a sniff walk.
• Session 2 (10 min): Repeat at the same distance. Look for faster disengagement. If your dog is offering check-ins without prompting, you’re on track.
• Session 3 (10 min): Try closing the distance by 5–10 feet. If your dog goes over threshold, move back — no shame. Record what happened in Bubbas.

Three short sessions in a week is enough to start building a new pattern. Bubbas tracks your sessions and adjusts your plan based on what you report.

The emergency U-turn: your new best friend

No matter how well you plan, you’ll get ambushed. An off-leash dog appears around a corner. A jogger surprises you. When that happens, you need one reliable move: the emergency U-turn.

Practice this at home first, with no triggers present. Say your cue word (“let’s go” works well), turn 180 degrees, and walk briskly in the opposite direction while dropping a trail of treats. Your dog follows the treats and moves away from the trigger. Practice until your dog spins with you automatically when they hear the cue.

• Use a happy, upbeat tone — not panicked or stern
• Drop 3–5 treats on the ground as you turn (scatter feeding engages the nose and calms the brain)
• Don’t yank the leash — let the treats do the work
• Practice at home 5 times a day until the turn is automatic